Actually I recently signed up for a dialup account to experiment with
multiple gateway routing on linux, and so in the process I had to set up
dialup networking, which I hadn't worked with since the 90s.

I found the modem setup on ubuntu to be relatively straighforward -
certainly more so than it was 15 years ago. I ran into a snag or two,
but the problems were quick and easy to resolve and I was up and running
on my ppp account within a quarter of an hour.

Once set up, it's a simple point and click to start up ppp and get on
the internet.